Using A Vintage Sewing Machine: The Ruffler Part 1 Basics

Do not be intimidated by your Ruffler! You are in charge!

Besides, it looks like that because it's such an ingenious device that can do so much. Really--it can. So much that I've had to break the posts I'm writing up into manageable amounts and have four of them, and that is just doing ruffles--this thing makes pleats too!

I'm using a vintage Singer Ruffler. If you have another brand and it looks a bit different, no problem--they work basically the same.
First lets get your Ruffler in working order. It needs oiling on three points. You can see these in the above picture. Hold the back with one hand and the fork arm with the other. Try and move the fork arm to get the oil worked in. Wipe it off after oiling.

I don't think I ever mentioned cleaning vintage attachments but meant to. Some people use 409 or chrome cleaners to clean them. I have too many allergies and avoid these chemicals. The only thing I've had to clean off a couple of my old feet were tiny rust spots. I wiped them with #0000 steel wool, and it worked fine.

Writing down how to use the Ruffler takes a lot of words. Just follow through and after you've learned to make a simple ruffle (which is super easy) you'll know the basics--everything else is expanding on or a variation on that one thing. In fact, if you can make a ruffle but hate everything else, that's ok because you can make the ruffle and sew it to whatever your putting it on separately.

Attach the Ruffler to the sewing machine by fitting the fork arm over the needle clamp screw and hooking the back on like a regular foot. Make sure and check that the needle passes through into the needle hole.
Ruffle See the adjusting lever in the front with a star, 12, 6, and 1 on it? The star is for disengaging the ruffler for straight stitch sewing. Ignore the 6 and 12 for now. The 1 is for ruffling. Pull the lever up and set it down with the projection at the 1. Underneath the adjusting screw is a small lever called the adjusting finger. You don't want it under the screw for ruffling (it's for pleats). Push it to the side. Remember back when I used the narrow hemmer and suggested for practice that you make several long strips with a hem on one side and keep them? If you did that get out those strips--we'll use them for practice in the Ruffler on the unhemmed side. If not, get a strip of fabric.

To put the fabric for ruffling in the foot place it over the first U in the separator guide. Then under and back up the single piece sticking out. Now insert the fabric between the two blue steel blades and pull the fabric edge to the back and under the needle.

You are now ready to sew a ruffle. We'll set the fullness of the ruffle in a moment. I want you to see how easy ruffling is, so lets take a few stitches. Don't forget to lower the foot. Sew for an inch or two. Keep the fabric edge against the inner edge of the separator guide.

Simple wasn't it? If you noticed, the ruffling blade moves with each stitch, so if you have your stitch length set high you'll get a fuller ruffle than if you have your stitch length set low. Find the adjusting screw on the Ruffler. If it is mostly unscrewed you will only get a hint of fullness in the ruffle. Tightening it down will produce a fuller ruffle.

For practice sew a few inches with the adjusting screw upward in its setting. Stop every few inches and tighten it some to see the difference it makes in the fullness of the ruffle. Adjust the stitch length too to see how that affects your ruffle. After playing with the Ruffler, go ahead and set it for how full you want your practice ruffles to be--I suggest not too full at this time--it'll be easier and you'll use less fabric.

You've made a ruffle! Now on to making a ruffle while sewing it to a piece of fabric at the same time.

Attaching Ruffle Take the piece of fabric you want to sew the ruffle on to and put it through the separator guide the same as for the ruffle (over the U and under the projection) and now put it under the ruffler foot (not through the blades--they're only for the ruffle fabric).

Take the fabric you want to ruffle and put it through the separator guide with the other fabric, but go through the blue steel blades.

Before you start sewing be aware that these two pieces of fabric are not going to go through the foot at the same rate. The one being ruffled is going to be moving faster than the flat one. You can try and hold the edges even together and see how that works for you.

I find it easiest to hold the two fabrics together but separated by my index finger:When done your ruffle will be attached to the fabric all in one step.
Does that unfinished edge on the back bother you? If you have a zig zag machine you could of course zig zag over it. But if you don't like that option you're in luck--the Singer book gives several ways to eliminate the unfinished edge (even while sewing the ruffle to the fabric). I'll post two tomorrow and more next week on Tuesday.

One often asked question about ruffling I can't answer for you is how long to make the ruffling strip to fit a given space. It all depends on the fullness you have set your Ruffler to and the fabric you're using (some fabrics gather differently even at the same settings). You have to experiment. An example is if you want the fullness of the ruffle to be one and a half, take a six inch piece of fabric and gather it into a four inch space. Another thing you can do is set the upper tension looser on the machine. Then you will be able to slide the ruffle on the thread to make it fit a given space (like hand gathering).

What would you use ruffles on? Look at patterns or clothes lately and you'll see ruffles everywhere. They go down the fronts of blouses, around collars, and on cuffs. Use them on girl's dresses. If you do historical/reenactment sewing, put them on petticoats.

My demonstration ruffles have plain edges, but you can add all sorts of lace and trim to the outer edges.

If you like vintage decor, here's a Singer ad from 1938 showing ruffle edged drapes and vanity table/stool covers you can make on your own sewing machine:

The Ruffler, Part Two:  Ruffles with Facings
The Ruffler, Part Three:  Edges
The Ruffler, Part Four:  Rows of Ruffles
The Ruffler, Part Five:  Pleats