Beautiful, Dangerous

I've mentioned before how  a well stocked old sewing basket is a sewing arsenal.  I was reminded of this when I was sewing eyelets into a cloth sun hat last week and needed to open them.  I, of course, got out great grandmother's silver handled stiletto --made for opening eyelet holes.  Perhaps if our modern sewing implements were made so well and so beautiful we would pass them on down to others instead of the cheap plastic stuff that keeps breaking and having to be replaced several times.  I could go on about this because I hate such waste but you know what I'm talking about.  Now, I'm going to go polish the handle on my sewing weapon.

Sewing Mood Swings

I'm in a quilting mood this week.  And it's not going to be pastel.

The Power of Darts

The shape of this dress isn't much different from the tent dress pattern I showed last week that I wouldn't wear.   Add some simple waist darts and what a change!  I would wear this dress with its subtle waist definition.  I can tell by looking at it though that those dart tops would have to be stopped a little lower--those high busted 60's styles!

Not A Sewing Machine For Beginners

I've wanted a Rocketeer for some time, so I was pretty excited that I got one a few weeks ago.  I thought it would take a high place in the sewing machine line-up.  It turns out this is a very picky machine.

First, it doesn't like its automatic thread control to be threaded or the tension is off.

Next, it must have the bobbin tension set for either a plastic or metal bobbin--don't try changing between the two or the tension must be reset.

And now I find that if the tensions are set correctly for straight stitching the top one needs resetting every time a zigzag is stitched.  Yep, picky.  I went back to the Yahoo Vintage Singers group files because I thought I remembered seeing something about this and found that it is an issue with this machine.  The top tension must be adjusted for zigzagging to get the tension right--sometimes by at least two numbers up.  Change the tension every time I want to go from straight stitching to zigzag?!  Too much!

On top of all that the foot pedal on mine heats up badly.  It looks weird in the photo because it was mounted in the cabinet and has a knee lever on it.  When I took it out of the cabinet I didn't remove the knee lever but left it on for now and turned the controller around to use it. It's also sitting on a piece of wood I put under it. I sewed practice scraps for five minutes and the foot controller was suprisingly hot.  I've had this problem before on another machine and bought a new electronic controller--these don't get hot.  It's a simple fix, but at this point I don't think this machine is going to get the use I thought it would so I'm not bothering to buy a new foot pedal.  I have far less picky machines I can use.

I would have hated to have learned to sew on one of these sewing machines.  In fact, the old tan Singer I learned to sew on was out at the same time as the Rocketeer --1961.  My mother couldn't afford an expensive machine and bought what is considered a cheap model Singer.  It might not have been one of the better machines, but it sewed well (without any issues) until the mid-90's when it's motor burned out.  This Rocketeer is getting by on looks, in my opinion.

Note:  Added 9/2/10:  I got a message about how this post was getting some attention on Pattern Review and how some people were writing some negative things about me because they love their Rocketeers and can get them to sew anything while I can't.  Even the phrase that I'm not "the end-all-be-all authority" was used.  Hmmm...if you've read more of my posts you would know I never once claimed such but rather enjoy playing with sewing machines and writing little posts about them.   I say how I use the files at the Vintage Singer group all the time.  And if you know anything about machines of any type you know that just because something is the same model doesn't mean they all work the same --especially if it's vintage.  I have two Singer 15-91s.  One is my favorite sewing machine; the other doesn't sew as well.  So, if your Rocketeer sews better than mine --that's good for you!  Yes, I've used other slant shank machines that work fine; this particular one doesn't.

Domestic Sewing

I always think of this sort of thing as domestic sewing--some new table napkins.  We always use cloth napkins, and it was past time for some new ones.  I made eight but the other four are in the laundry.  Domestic sewing isn't my favorite type of sewing, but I'm (usually) always pleased with the results.  And look at the neat fabric that would never fit into any other sewing area!

Tent Dress

Some people can wear this style dress and look as fabulous as the pattern models.  Not me.  I always look and feel like I dragged out one of my old maternity dresses.  I bet it's a comfortable dress though.

The Rocketeer: Plastic vs. Metal Bobbins

The general rule on bobbins is if the bobbin case is metal use metal bobbins.  I wouldn't even consider using plastic in my 15-91.  But some of the later model sewing machines can use either plastic or metal.

Of course, you don't have to follow the first rule but the second general rule on bobbins is to pick one, metal or plastic, and stick with it.  Why?  Because the difference between them can affect the tension.  This is what I've experienced this week with the Rocketeer.

From the moment I started sewing with this machine I used metal bobbins.  I did find I had to turn the bobbin tension screw a whole half turn to get the tensions right.  Then I didn't feel like winding a bobbin for some practice stitching so I grabbed a plastic one that had thread already on it.  It didn't work.  I found I had to turn the tension screw all the way back half a turn to where it started to get the tension right.

Since the bobbin box that came with the machine only had six metal bobbins and was full of plastic bobbins (plus more loose in a drawer), the previous owner obviously preferred the plastic ones.

When it comes to class 66 metal bobbins there is another issue too.  The vintage bobbins were made much better than some of the new ones.  This doesn't really show up well in a photo but you can feel the difference. The vintage bobbins are smoother around the hole in the middle.  The newer ones stick up a tiny bit.  The problem is that this tiny bit can sometimes catch the thread as it's coming off the bobbin and affect the stitches.  Plastic bobbins don't have this problem.

Choices.  I think for the Rocketeer I'll probably use the plastic bobbins that came with it.  There are a lot of them.

Jiffy Dress Finished

I finished the Jiffy Simplicity dress early last week.  As soon as I was done sewing it, I wore it.  And I've worn two or three days since then too.  (I did wash it somewhere in there.)  That should tell you how comfortable it is.  It's not the most beautiful dress but it's nice.  I put a 1960's gold link belt on to see how it looked with it.

The pattern (which I posted last Monday too):

The next shot is a back view of the dress, but I'm turning so it doesn't show well.

I used a linen/rayon blend fabric that is quite cool and comfortable.  The dress was a jiffy to make.  There are just the front and back pieces and facings.  Details include a zipper and darts.  That's it.  I had to make a few minor changes.  The 32 bust patterns fit me perfectly up top but I need a little more hip room so I normally just cut a little extra from the hip down.  I forgot to for some reason, so this dress has 1/2 inch seams from the bottom to the waist and then tapers into the usual 5/8 inch seam.

Oh, French darts and 1960's high busted styles!  You know how the darts are supposed to point to the fullest part but not quite reach it.  These darts went right up and over and kept on going.  I can't deny (especially since padding the dress form) that I am what is considered low busted but these darts were ridiculous.  I flipped the dress inside out, marked the dart point to end an inch below where it was, picked out half the dart, and resewed it.  I'm not very professional about modifications --do what works, and this did.

This is a very casual dress, but that's perfect for me.  Here it is again with me sorting through dusty patterns on the patio:

Using A Vintage Sewing Machine: The Older ZigZag Attachment

This ZigZag attachment predates the more popular ZigZagger that uses cams.  Mine is from the 1930's and  has part #121706.  Unlike the later ZigZagger that can do a variety of stitches this attachment does only a zigzag stitch.

The extra piece that is beside the ZigZagger is an edge guide that attaches to the foot.  It acts the same as the Edgestitcher foot by helping guide two pieces of lace and/or fabric through it. There is a tiny screw permanently set in it that attaches it to the foot.

The lever on the side of the attachment simply disengages the ZigZagger so you can do a straight stitch with the attachment still on the machine.

You've probably noticed that this is not one of the cleanest, shiniest attachments I have.  It's showing its age.  I cleaned it up some, but it needs more.  The manual doesn't even mention oiling it, but you know the routine by now:  if it moves, oil it.

On the back of the attachment is the adjusting screw which changes the width of the zigzag stitch.  When the screw is turned left (or inward) it makes a wide stitch width.  Moved to the right or outward it decreases the sideways movement of the attachment and narrows the stitch width.  That along with changing the stitch length on the sewing machine is all the adjusting that is needed.  This next photo, taken from the manual, shows the variety of stitches made by varying the width and length of the stitch:

To put the attachment on the machine, remove the presser foot and hook the fork arm of the ZigZag attachment onto the needle clamp.  There are two screw holes in the shank:  Singer 101 machines use the upper hole, all others use the lower hole.

Sew somewhat slowly while using this attachment and hold the fabric loosely because it will be moving back and forth sideways.  This back and forth movement is what makes using the ZigZag attachments difficult, in my opinion.  The wider the stitch the more movement there is while trying to guide the fabric.

The following photo is just a few sample rows I was sewing.  The manual says to use a light upper and lower tension to keep the fabric from puckering.  I did have this trouble but instead of changing the tensions I put a firm stabilizer under my fabric.  This helped a lot!

Here I've done a few rows with the stitch length on 12.  I started with the adjusting screw turned inwards for a wide stitch, moved it out some, and ended with it outwards for a very narrow stitch.  On the last row I kept the stitch width the same but moved the length to 30.  It made a very tiny satin stitch.

I think these days we view the zigzag stitch as a basic utility stitch.  When this attachment was made it wasn't.  The manual says that "the zigzag stitch is mainly intended for ornamental purposes."  It goes over the basic uses of it but talks about it as quite an innovative thing.  Of course, before this little gadget was invented there was only straight stitching on a sewing machine (unless it was a chainstitch machine, but that's different).

On the front of the foot is a Cord Slot.  Different sizes of cord could be put through it and stitched down with a zigzag stitch.  Here I'm trying out some pearl cotton:

It doesn't show well because of the dark red thread but you get the idea:

The manual shows examples of cording sewn down with a zigzag that range from yarn down to floss:

Would I buy a ZigZag attachment if I didn't have one?  Of course not.  It's neat as a piece of sewing history but not very practical by today's standards.  If you ever get the chance to use one, try it.  It will make you appreciate what a modern marvel the automatic zigzag sewing machine was to our mothers and grandmothers.  Instead of trying to handle fabric that is wriggling back and forth while trying not to hold it too tightly but guiding it at the same time, the zigzag sewing machine's needle moved back and forth and took all this work away.  That must have been a huge step into the modern world of sewing.

Classic Shirt

This vintage patterns is quite basic.  It's hard to go wrong with a nice classic shirt.  The drawstring waist on the green striped one is a nice twist.

The Rocketeer

My new sewing machine:  The Singer 500A, "The Rocketeer".  Singer didn't give this machine that nickname; collectors did because of its modern styling.  It is a beauty!  The A after the number shows it was made in Anderson, South Carolina.  It didn't travel that far from home.

I had before pictures to show you but I switched computers and my photos are on the other one.  No problem--there wasn't much to show anyway.  The top had a layer of dust because the lid wasn't on it but other than that there wasn't much cleaning to do.  Usually when I find a vintage machine it has to stay in the workshop for a few days while I clean it up.  The Rocketeer was ready in a couple of hours.
It has the usual nicks and dings, but that's ok with me.  It shows that this machine was used by somebody.  (Beware vintage sewing machines in pristine condition.  Very suspicious!)  Although the lid wasn't on it, it did pop back on.  One of the hinges is broken off.  The previous owner actually put the broken hinge in the attachment box, so I do have it.  This shows how meticulous the owner was with her sewing machine --I'll assume a "her" since I found a weight loss brochure for women under one of the drawers.

The lid opens and the two spool holders pop up ready to go.  The other hole is for an extra spool spindle which can be taken out...

...and put on top with the lid closed.  A nice option.

The bobbin winding mechanism is also under the lid on top. It takes the common class 66 bobbins.

I threaded it up and gave it a try:

Terrible!  Big awful loops on the underside.  Not unexpected though.  I played around with the tension but couldn't really get it to work so I went to the computer and straight to the Yahoo Vintage Singers group.  Remarkably the answer was on the second page of messages.  Another woman with a 500 was having the exact same problem.  Luckily one of the old sewing machine guys answered in detail.  This vertical piece that is part of the upper threading:

is called the Automatic Thread Control and was a new thing Singer came up with to help with the flow of thread off the spool into the upper tension.  It doesn't always work and can sometimes cause a tension problem.  The recommendation is to skip it.  I rethreaded without it:

Nicer stitches.  They're not perfect and need a little tension tweaking, but I can handle that.

Simplicity Amazing Fit Dress Finished

This is the finished dress I made using Simplicity 2404; one of their Amazing Fit line of patterns.  I think it's a pretty good fit!

If you're used to vintage patterns that come one size to the envelope prepare yourself.  This envelope was stuffed with not only multiple sizes but the bodice had separate pieces for each cup size and the skirt had three different fits --slim, average, and curvy.

I followed the pattern guidelines but went with the B cup even though it said I was a C.  Good choice because the bodice fits perfectly.  The guidelines showed I should use the curvy skirt which I went with.  Bad choice; I thought I should probably go with the average because I haven't got much of a rear end despite what the pattern said, but I didn't.  The curvy fit was a hint too big and I had to adjust some out --which I wouldn't have had to do if I had used average.  Still a bit big in the back:

The dress itself is easy to make.  A beginner could do it.  But the pattern instructions are not for a basic beginner.  They go through an extensive basting everything together procedure, try it on, adjust, take apart and sew back together.  Blah!  I didn't do all that except on the side seams.  And then the pattern left out things like clipping the princess seam curves.  I didn't have any trouble but I wouldn't want to be a beginner using these pattern instructions.

I used black pique because I got it in my head that I wanted a black pique dress.  I had to search for the right fabric though.  Some pique I found was too thick.  One bolt had lint all over it in the fabric store --a good indicator that that is what the dress would end up with.  I finally found some, and I'm pleased with the results.

I like this pattern enough that I might make it up again with the different neckline.

(Do you like the grandfather clock and end table?  My dad made them both --plus the matching table on the other side of the couch that you can't see.  I admit that I am spoiled.)

Using A Vintage Sewing Machine: The Pinking Attachment

Probably the oddest looking attachment I have--the Singer Pinking Attachment.

I couldn't find any information about this attachment anywhere. I searched Ebay for a few days to see if any came up for sale. A few showed up but the prices people wanted was outrageously high.  The more common pinking attachment from Singer was the one that clamped to the side of a table and had a handle to turn. This particular one I have hooks to the sewing machine itself. I believe it was my grandmother's and, therefore, would have been with her 15-91 from the 1930's. Also the copyright dates on the tiny manual are 1933-1935.

Someone had definitely used my attachment in the past.  I had to clean old lint out from around the cutting wheel. A lot of it seemed to be red velvet.

The manual says to oil it but doesn't show the oiling points. Basically, if it moves, oil it. Just a drop.  (The following picture is not an oiling diagram, but it is a good clear view of some of the moving parts.)


The gears are on one side. The movement of the needle bar and clamp move these which will move the blade on the other side.

On the front of the attachment is an adjustable guide for lining the edge of your fabric up against.

The Pinking Attachment can be use on any lockstitch sewing machine except the Singer 66-1 and 66-3.

First remove the thread and bobbin thread from the machine since it's not needed. You can take the needle out or leave it --your choice. I left mine. To put the Pinking Attachment on the machine take the presser foot and thumb screw off the machine.
Make sure the presser bar is at its highest point and hook the fork arm onto the needle clamp. Hold the attachment so that the end of the presser bar touches down onto the bottom of the slot for it. While still holding it put the regular thumb screw into the presser bar and tighten.  (I made a mistake here--I wasn't supposed to use the regular thumb screw but one that came with the attachment.  It has a spring on it and is shown as C in the above diagram).  It will be on the opposite side from normal. I had to angle the camera to try and show this.


Lower the presser bar and the Pinking Attachment is ready.

To use it, guide the fabric into it while pushing on the foot controller as if for sewing. The attachment does all the work.  It both feeds the fabric in and cuts it.

The pinked fabric coming out:

I don't generally rave about pinked fabric but look at this next shot.  Perfectly pinked!  With minimual effort.

The only problem I encountered was that the screw on the presser bar wasn't enough to hold the attachment securely.  I  simply put my finger down on the attachment with my right hand and held it as it worked.  Not a problem anymore.

The cutter wheel doesn't need sharpening (this one still worked).  But if it wears down over time it can be adjusted to still cut.  The manual says to do this loosen "the clamp screw (G in the diagram) and turn the eccentric spindle (H --and, Yes, it is called that!) to the right or left to bring the ball bearing roller in closer contact with the cutter. The pressure between the roller and cutter should not be heavier than necessary to make a clean cut.  When the pressure is obtained, securely tighten the clamp screw."

The cutting wheel can be removed though.  In fact, a straight cut blade was also sold that could go into this attachment.  With it you could adjust the cutting guide and run straight or bias cut fabric through it to be cut into strips.  Imagine how easy this would be if you had a lot of strips to cut!  My attachment didn't come with this extra blade but I'm wondering if a rotary cutter blade might work in it --I plan on trying it.

Also if anyone who knows this attachment might have noticed, there is a wire piece that is not on my attachment in the photos.  It's not important except when changing the blade.  I happened to see it in one of the diagrams and remembered it was one of the miscellaneous things I have in a little box with my attachments --screws and things that I haven't identified.  Once I saw the picture I got the wire and put it back in the attachment.  It pays to hang on to the odds and ends; you eventually find out where they go.

I confess I always considered this an outdated attachment.  It's been sitting on my shelf for over a year and I never used it until this week.  I was completely wrong!  I love this thing.  I used to have trouble with my wrist to the point that I sometimes couldn't use a rotary cutter.  And my pinking shears have become nearly impossible to open even after oiling.  With the Pinking Attachment I sat back and let the machine do all the work.  I wish this attachment were more available so everyone with an old machine could use one!  It's so simple and yet there's nothing like it with today's sewing machines.  Another reason why I love my old sewing machine.

Oops!  I made a mistake in this tutorial.  I checked this morning to see if it posted and noticed the thumb screw in the diagram is not the one I used to hook the attachment to the machine.  I used the regular one but it needs the one with a spring in it.  I have this one (again, in my miscellaneous parts box).  I got it out and tried it with the attachment and it works even better!  It's good to have all the right parts.

Note:  I tried to find a rotary cutting blade to fit this and never did.  They're either too big or too small.