1940's Lauren Bacall Inspired Skirt

I watched an old movie several weeks ago that had Lauren Bacall in it.  She was wearing a nice simple skirt I liked.  I finally got around to making a copy of it from an old pattern I have.  I called it my Lauren Bacall skirt when I asked my husband to take the photos --an instant sell for him --he loves this look.  So do I!

I made it using this 1940's Vogue 9653.  Perfectly straightforward sewing...almost.  It says 26 inch waist which is what I have, but I had to add an inch to the waist and at least that much to the hips --no girdles for me.  A lot of times I will use vintage patterns but make the skirt more of a modern knee length.  Not this one.  This kind of skirt doesn't look right when it hits on the knee, so I kept it a little longer.  The fabric is a tiny houndstooth of brown and black.  The skirt turned out just like the pattern envelope picture.  I'll be wearing this a lot this season!

Petticoat Pattern

Petticoats, crinolines, whatever they are --it's a good time to whip one up for those 1950's style holiday dresses.  I go back and forth on these sort of things.  Sometimes I love a full skirt and other times I love a straight skirt.  At the moment I'm in love with the 1940's...no, I take that back...I've been in love with 40's style since the mid 80's when I found my first vintage patterns and was given a few of my great aunt's dresses from the 40's.  I am broken hearted that I don't have those dresses to show you, but my mother said they were dirty from being in an attic and with her usual lack of finesse when it came to cleaning threw them in the washer when I wasn't home --they shrank.  I'm still sad.

Lovely Blog Award

Earlier this week Nancy at Waiter, Waiter, Percolator sent A Lovely Blog Award to me.  That was quite a surprise!  Thanks, Nancy!

Accepting the award means doing the following:
1.  Accept the award.  Post it on your blog with the name of the person who awarded it along with a link to their blog.
2.  Send it on to fifteen other bloggers that you have recently discovered.
3.  Contact those bloggers and let them know they've been chosen.

While I'm quite flattered to receive the award I haven't the time right now to fulfill all the requirements.  I will give you a short list of some of my favorite blogs though:

Peter at MPB
Molly at Molly's Sewing & Garage Sale Adventure 
Elle at It's A Sewing Life
Erika at Miss-Sews-It-All
New Vintage Lady
Shona at In The Heyday
Debi at My Happy Sewing Place
Debbie Cook at Stitches and Seams
Pam at Sidewalk Shoes

I'll try and get back to finishing this later, but it won't be this week --too busy!

Table Settings from 1936

Since a lot of Americans are getting ready for Thanksgiving this week I thought I'd show these table settings from my 1936 McCall Needlework magazine.

This cut-work cloth above could be made with a blue transfer pattern that was available for 50 cents.  It was done on oyster white linen.  The china is a green and white design and the centerpiece is white flowers to continue the color scheme.

The top one is a colonial style that won first prize at a "Tri-State Thanksgiving Dinner Table Decoration Competition" that was held at Rockefeller Center, NY.  It lacks any linens other than the napkins.  The bottom one didn't win but still made it into the magazine with its color scheme:  "A gold damask tablecloth with purple napkins and centerpiece (edges buttonholed with dull gold-colored thread) provide the two main colors, repeated in a centerpiece of purple glass with grapes, eggplants, squash, and a pineapple.  On purple glass plates are set Wedgewood plates with dull gold borders.  The glasses are purple." 

These next two are breakfast and luncheon settings.  The top one has yellow placemats embroidered with black and white cross stitch.  The other one has a Mexican fiesta theme with red and green as the color scheme.  The plates are yellow  --I recognize those--they're Fiestaware!

The cover of the magazine shows the Mexican theme cross stitch.

What would the 1930's be without crocheted doilies?  Here are some done in brown thread to decorate each place setting.  Guess whose great-grandmother actually crocheted stuff like this!

Yes, you got it...mine.  I know --that cup doily needs blocking.  And, yikes, that table needs scrubbing!

McCalls sold patterns and directions to make all the table linens shown.

Here's a question for you:  What did people call Depression glass back then?  Obviously they didn't call it that!

1940's Peplum Blouse Pattern and Made Up

Usually I just show a vintage pattern on Mondays but today I have something extra...the top from the pattern.  It was made in the late 1980's with this 1942 McCalls 4798 pattern.  I guess that makes it a retro vintage style blouse.  I confess I didn't make this blouse; my mother did.  I remember she was bored with her usual sewing projects and came to my room and rummaged through my vintage patterns.  This was one of my favorites so she took it and sewed it up.  She made no adjustments for fit so this is straight from the pattern in a vintage size 16 size 34 bust --this makes a good opportunity for looking at the fit of a vintage pattern.  It's made of a cotton sateen (and could have used some pressing).

I've slipped some small shoulder pads in since it needed them and originally would have had them --I can't even tell they're there though so they're too small.  You can see that the blouse is way too roomy in the bust area.  (I normally use a 32 bust pattern and add to the waist and hips).  Of course, I'm not wearing it with era appropriate undergarments which changes the shape of the garment for us modern gals.  The waist fits fine as well as the hips.  In retrospect this blouse must have been much too big for me when it was made --I was super scrawny back then.  I noticed this year I've gained a little weight --middle age...blah!

A back view.

It has double inverted pleats in the front and back on the peplum and smaller ones on the bodice that are sewn down for a bit (the bottom one isn't sewn down but hangs loose).  I remember my mother grumbling a bit to get these just right.

You probably noticed right away that the sleeve is different from the pattern which has long sleeves.  I can't remember but I think we didn't have enough fabric for a long sleeve.  The short sleeve was borrowed from another 1942 pattern (I still have it) and used instead.  The reason it has pearl buttons is that my mother and I had found a huge lot of mother-of-pearl buttons at this time and put them on everything!  Nowadays I tend to put covered buttons on my vintage style clothes unless I have some special buttons.

I've had this blouse packed away for years and only brought it back out last year.  I still like it enough that I might try and think of a way to get in that bodice and take it in some.  Oh, and the peplum with skinny jeans?!  I just found that I love this look!  So much that I've written on my Things To Make list (yes, I have one) to make some peplum blouses to wear with these jeans this spring.  I'm thinking a smaller cap sleeved one that fits through the bodice would be nice!

Vintage Sewing Machine Smell

Is that not a strange post title?  First, this is not a post about burning or smoky smells coming from your vintage sewing machine --you do have a problem if that is happening.  Nor is this a post about the musty odor that is in nearly all old sewing cases.  Good luck getting that out.  I still haven't gotten it out of my Featherweight's case.  This is a post about the smell of sewing...on a vintage Singer sewing machine.

Back in the late 70's, 80's, and early 90's I did all my sewing on a 1960's tan Singer.  I noticed it had a slight scent as I used it.  Nothing bad --just a faint smell.  I never gave it much thought.

After I married, my machine's motor died.  Stuck without a machine, I bought a cheap model at Walmart to use (yeah, I did).  It didn't have sewing machine smell.  Later my mother gave me her Elna when she bought a new machine.  It didn't have the smell either.  (I sold the cheapo model at a yard sale --cheap though it was it did sew pretty good).  I used a few machines here and there.  They didn't have the smell.

Frankly, I forgot about sewing machine smell --it's not something one normally thinks of!  Then a few years ago when I wanted a simple well built sewing machine and one I could take care of myself I bought my Singer 15-91.  The first time I really sat down at it and began sewing it happened...the scent --faint and subtle.  It's too difficult to describe a smell, but there it was and I recognized it.  It is said that smells can trigger memory responses more than some of the other senses.  As I used the 15 I remembered that old tan machine and all the sewing I did on it --and all my old Vogue and vintage patterns as well as the stack of fabric I had at my disposal because my grandmother decided to quit sewing (and had bought excellent quality fabric).  I remembered many of the outfits I made --there were a lot of them --and how much fun and frustration I had sewing them.  But most of all I found the scent comforting.  A state of sewing blissfulness.

I'm not quite sure what the smell is but I'm going to guess that it's the thirty something oiling points all warmed up and in action.  I don't even know if other vintage sewing machines have it since I'm only acquainted with Singers.  (I might have to find a different brand and try it out.)

Perhaps you think I've gone a bit nuts here, but surely there is someone out there who knows what I'm talking about!  If not, that's ok.

Stylish Dress/Bag Pattern

Look at this dress unbelted.  It's a bag!  Add a belt and it miraculously becomes stylish and nice (with strangely few gathers at the waist).  Oh, puh-lease!  I have serious doubts about this pattern.

Sweaters 1936

Here are some fabulous sweaters from an old McCalls Needlework magazine from Winter 1936/1937 that I  found.  Sorry the photos aren't better but it's an oversized magazine that wouldn't fit on the scanner plus it's getting a bit brittle. 

Each sweater has the pattern with it.

And most have the skirt pattern to knit too.  I love the idea of a knitted skirt but back when I had one I snagged it and had saggy butt syndrome (you know... you stand up but your skirt still looks like it's sitting).

I love the long 30's silhouette.

Can you imagine knitting this whole dress?  Not me.

 The yarn colors described are greens, blues, rust, and browns.

McCalls threw in a couple of men's sweaters but who cares about them when that sweater jacket in the lower corner is stealing all the attention --I want one!

There are a couple of yarn ads in the magazine too.  Bernat has been around awhile.

I would wear any and all of these sweaters!

Vintage Bed Jacket Pattern

Are bed jackets still made?  I never see them, but I rarely go shopping.  When my mother was sick and bedridden a couple of years ago, my aunt brought over grandmother's vintage bed jackets.  My mother would have me help her into one when we knew company was coming over.  That way she didn't feel like she was in her pajamas in front of people --not everyone thinks it's ok to go out in public in their pajamas much less receive guests in them.  Bed jackets remind me of my very ladylike great aunt who had several of them.  Very quaint.  I should make one to keep on hand except when I catch a cold there is nothing ladylike about it.

Leaves and Fall

No, no nature photos here (although I do like them).  The weather has finally started to turn cooler here, so it's time for the seasonal jewelry changeover.  These are some vintage leaf brooches and earrings I picked up at thrift stores years ago.

Perfect for lapels.  The one in the foreground is a little the worse for wear but that never stopped me from wearing it.

A couple of scatter pins.

Autumn color rhinestones.

Kramer rhinestone clip-on earrings that curl up the side of the ear.

Sarah Coventry clip-on earrings that hurt!

I used to thrift shop as a teenager and bought costume jewelry for cheap.  Not as many people collected this stuff back then.  Plus the older women that were getting rid of their jewelry had been young during the 20s-40s.  If I could go back I would not be so lazy and work harder for money to get more of these beauties.  It wasn't long before lots of people were searching for vintage jewelry and the prices shot up.  Oh, to find 1930's brooches for 25 cents again!

What does vintage jewelry have to do with sewing?  If you haven't noticed, nearly everything I make is out of solid colors or subtle prints --all the better to load the vintage jewelry on!

A Comforting Sewing Machine

I love this sewing machine...my Singer 15-91.  After the pitfalls with my Rocketeer this week I sat in front of my 15 with some relief.  Such a reliable machine.  But even it had its problems when I first got it.  I bought it at the Goodwill for $25.  Here it is when I first brought it home and put it in the workshop:

It was covered in grime.  The silver parts were oily and brown.  I ran it for a minute but then it slowed down and stopped.  I started the clean up and took the hand wheel off.  This is only part of the nasty brown grease that was clogging up the gears:

No wonder it wouldn't run.  I cleaned them up and fixed the wiring.  It was mainly the old grease that stopped it from running.  Everything needed cleaning and oiling.  It's not the best looking 15 --it has chips and dings but it sews spectacularly.

I play around with fixing up and using other machines but this is the one I sew with on a regular basis.  I have a tackle box full of attachments for it --these are what I used earlier this year in my posts on how to use them. 

If you're in search of a vintage sewing machine this one and the 201 are great finds.  How to spot a 15?  It has the tension over on the left face plate not in front.  Singer made a lot of varieties of the 15 class machine.  It was so popular other companies copied this design --that says a lot.

Ok, Rocketeer, It's You Who Gave Up

First let me get this out:  AAGGHHHHH!  Forget about yesterday's post.  I was finally enthused with my Singer 500 Rocketeer.  The walking foot I ordered came in the mail in the afternoon, and I immediately attached it and started sewing.

Everything went well at first.  Beautiful stitches. No problems.  Then the stalling started again.  And got worse and worse.  As usual I went to Yahoo Vintage Singers group to look up information.  Coincidentally, there was my answer on the first page of messages.  Someone else was having the same problem with a different Singer.  Unfortunately, the answer was exactly what I suspected but didn't want.  There might be a dead space in the motor.  It might just need cleaning and new brushes but it's possible it might need a new motor. 

Wahhh!  Sure, I know how to change the brushes and clean the commutator but I don't like doing it.  It makes me nervous.  I guess I'm afraid I'll put it back together wrong or something.  I used to be a little more gung-ho about sewing machine repairs --now I'm lazy.  I like my repairs to be simple.

The Rocketeer seems a nice machine if you get a good one.  In fact, despite the stalling the stitches were excellent.  As for my Rocketeer...Sorry, you're getting shelved for now.  (At least for a week or two).  On a different note...I wonder what the previous owner sewed with this machine.  She must have done a lot to have run this thing to near death!  For some reason I think that's kind of fascinating!

I Never Gave Up On You Entirely, Rocketeer

When I first bought my Singer 500 Rocketeer I wasn't too pleased with some of its issues.  It had two minor problems and two major problems.  I thought that it would be like most of the machines I've fixed up; I sewed right away with them.  Not the Rocketeer.  At the time I didn't have the money or time to fix this thing up, but I want this machine to work.  I have plans for it.

The first two problems were easily fixed.  The automatic thread control caused tension problems so I simply skipped it when I threaded.  Secondly, the tension had to be changed from straight stitch to zigzag.  I found the right numbers for each when sewing basic cotton, wrote them down, and put them in the manual where I can glance at them if I forget.  I still think having to change the tension so much is absurd, but I don't use a zigzag much so I don't care about this.

Now the two major problems --and even they aren't too bad.  The first one is the old foot control that came on the machine.  It still has the knee lever attached in the photo --it had been mounted in the cabinet.  The control heated up badly after a few minutes of sewing.  Not good.  The second problem was the machine would stall.  I would sew a bit and lift my foot off the control.  When I put my foot back down on the control the motor would whine and the machine wouldn't sew until I gave the hand wheel a quick spin to get it going.  This happened every time I lifted my foot off the control and became annoying.

Replacing a foot control is easy.  I remembered I had a couple of extra foot controls in the workshop --I don't have to buy one!  I had taken a bakelite one off the Singer 128 when I made it a hand crank and an electronic one was given to me by a cousin.  Although I like the old bakelite ones I put the other one on the machine.  Why?  It's brown and the cords to the Rocketeer are brown.  They match!  (Actually my husband was walking by and offered to wire the foot control up so I let him --he likes minor electrical stuff).

After putting the foot control on I went ahead and oiled the machine again to make sure it was ready.  What a difference!  That old foot control was terrible.  The machine isn't even stalling anymore.  I thought I was going to have to open the motor, change the brushes, and clean it --maybe eventually but not in the immediate future.  I don't know if the stalling problem was caused by the old foot control or not but this machine is working wonderfully now.

I purchased a slant shank walking foot over the weekend.  I intend to try the Rocketeer out as my straight stitch quilting machine.

The Whole Ensemble

These late 60's early 70's ensemble patterns are some of my favorites.  I would wear everything shown on this pattern in those colors (except maybe the green plaid pants).  And I want all those shoes and boots too.  Peter at MPB is using a similar pattern to make Cathy a wardrobe --out of one of my favorite fabrics:  Houndstooth!  I can't wait to see his finished outfit.