Middle Age and New Muslins

I'm 45.  I don't have a problem with it.  (Except for maybe that shoulder pain issue.)  But last spring I noticed something  -- skirts I had worn for years, like my denim pencil skirt and the khaki one, were a little snug.  Just enough to be uncomfortable and get pulled out of the closet.  My favorite short sleeve fitted white shirt was snug too.  For the first time in two decades (other than those pregnancies) my size changed.  I found a scale -which I rarely use - and, yes, five new pounds.  Enough to make me get rid of several outfits.  Not really a problem...

...until it came to sewing.  I didn't make many tops last year if you noticed.  I did make two blouses - but I usually wear them unbuttoned over a tank top.  I can wear them buttoned, but...just a smidgen too tight in the armhole area.  Remember that green flowered 60's dress I made that I took the sleeves out of last spring so I could have more room to move?  It was too tight in the arm area.  It bound in the front and pulled in the back plus I couldn't lift my arms without the whole thing riding up on my boobs.  Quite uncomfortable and unflattering -- since when I put my arms down my dress was still sitting up above my boobs and I had to pull it down!  I made a shirtwaist dress I never showed you that had short sleeves that again I had to take the sleeves out of to salvage it since it was too binding and uncomfortable with them. 

Yes, I basted a zipper into my muslin

But I want to wear sleeves!!!  So I've been measuring and making muslins and getting confused/frustrated.  The sloper I worked on last winter isn't quite right anymore.  I have broad shoulders...I knew that.  They're also more forward than I realized.  Ok.  I have a low bust -- again, not news to me.  But then the dreadful realization...I might be looking at doing some FBA's.  Oh, no.  Not that.  I should have known; especially after buying all new bras last year.  My overly full B somewhat C cup has become an overly full C somewhat D.

I decided to find out if an FBA is my solution.  I have S2648 which is one of those patterns with A-D cup sizes included.  I made it with the C cup.  Not quite an amazing fit.  I made it with the D cup.  Better.  Using Fit For Real People,  I also learned how to move the fullness in the bust on a princess seam down.  A better fit but it still pulls some in the back under the back of the armhole when I put my arms out in front.  The wrinkles all point to the back armpit area.

I make notes on my muslins -esp. since I'll keep this for reference

At the moment I'm quite tired of reading about the armscye.  Add to the back, remove from the front.  Don't have it too high or too low under the arm.

Sigh...I'm working on it.  I'm getting closer.  I will soon be able to make clothes with sleeves that I can move comfortably in.